The Best Time to Bring Your Succulents Indoors for Winter

Succulents are tough little plants. They store water in their leaves, making them champs at surviving dry conditions. But they’re not invincible. In the U.S, where climates range from humid summers to freezing winters, knowing when to bring your succulents indoors can mean a lot.

Temperature, light, and humidity all play a role. Most succulents, like echeverias, haworthias, and sedums, prefer temperatures between 60°F and 80°F. When it dips below 50°F, many succulents start to struggle. 

Frost is their worst enemy—it can damage their cells and turn them mushy. I’ve lost a few plants to unexpected cold snaps, and trust me, it’s heartbreaking. Bringing them indoors at the right time protects them from harsh weather while ensuring they get enough light to stay healthy. 

But when exactly is the “right time”? 

When to Bring Succulents Indoors

Let’s break it down by season, region, and some practical signs to watch for.

Early fall – The ideal time for most U.S. regions

For most regions in the U.S, early fall—think September to early October—is the right time for bringing succulents indoors. This is when temperatures start to drop, especially at night. In places like the Northeast, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest, nighttime temps can dip below 50°F by mid-September. 

While living in Colorado, I learnt to check my weather app religiously around this time. One chilly night can stress my succulents, so I start moving them inside when I see forecasts predicting lows below 55°F.

If you’re in a milder climate, like Southern California or parts of Texas, you might have more wiggle room. Some cold-hardy cacti can handle brief dips to 40°F, but I wouldn’t risk it. Last year, I left my jade plant outside too long, and it started dropping leaves like crazy. 

Lesson learned: better safe than sorry.

Late fall – For warmer climates

In warmer regions like Florida, Arizona, or coastal California, you might not need to bring your succulents indoors until late fall, around November. These areas often stay warm well into autumn, with daytime temps in the 70s or higher. 

But even here, keep an eye on nighttime lows. I visited a friend in Phoenix last November, and her succulents were still thriving on her patio. But she told me she brings them in when overnight temps hit the low 50s, just to be safe.

Winter – If you’ve waited too long

If you’re reading this in December and your succulents are still outside, don’t panic—but act fast. Winter is tough on succulents, especially in colder states like Minnesota or New York. Frost can hit suddenly, and prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40°F can be fatal. 

I once forgot a small aloe on my balcony during a surprise snowstorm. By the time I remembered, it was a goner. If you’re late to the game, check for signs of cold stress and get those plants inside ASAP.

Regional Considerations for American Homes

The U.S. is a big place, and the climate varies wildly. Here’s a quick guide to help you decide when to bring your succulents indoors based on where you live:

• Northeast (e.g., New York, Massachusetts): Start moving succulents indoors in early September. Nighttime temps can drop quickly, and frost is common by October.
• Midwest (e.g., Illinois, Ohio): Aim for mid-to-late September. Cold fronts can sneak up, and you don’t want your plants caught in a sudden freeze.
• South (e.g., Florida, Georgia): You might not need to move them until November or even December, depending on the year. Watch for nighttime lows below 50°F.
• Southwest (e.g., Arizona, Nevada): Late fall (November) is usually fine, but check your local forecast for unexpected cold snaps.
• Pacific Northwest (e.g., Washington, Oregon): Early September is best, as rain and cooler temps arrive early.
• Mountain States (e.g., Colorado, Utah): Like me, you’ll want to bring them in by early September. High altitude means colder nights, even if days are warm.

Not sure about your region? A quick search for your local frost dates can give you a clearer timeline. I use the Farmer’s Almanac website—it’s a lifesaver.

Signs Your Succulents Need to Come Indoors

Sometimes, your succulents will tell you when it’s time to move them. Here are a few signs to watch for:

Soft or mushy leaves: This can mean cold damage or too much moisture. I once noticed my echeveria’s leaves feeling squishy after a cold, rainy night. It was a clear signal to bring it inside.

Discoloration: If your succulent’s vibrant green or purple leaves start looking pale or brownish, it might be stressed from cold or too much sun exposure.

Leaf drop: Dropping leaves can be a sign of temperature stress. My jade plant started shedding when I left it out during a chilly week.

Slow growth or stretching: If your succulent starts reaching for light (called etiolation), it’s not getting enough sun. This can happen outdoors in fall when days get shorter, so it’s time to move them to a sunny indoor spot.

How to Transition Succulents Indoors

Bringing your succulents inside isn’t just about plopping them on a windowsill. A smooth transition helps them adjust without stress. Here’s what I do:

1. Inspect for pests

Before bringing any plant indoors, I check for pests like aphids or mealybugs. These critters love succulents and can spread to your other houseplants. I use a magnifying glass to inspect the leaves and stems. If I spot anything, I spray the plant with a mix of water and neem oil before bringing it inside.

Clean and repot (if needed)

Outdoor succulents can get dusty or covered in debris. I gently rinse mine with water or wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. If the soil looks compacted or the pot’s too small, I repot them in fresh, well-draining cactus mix. Last fall, I repotted my Haworthia, and it’s been thriving ever since.

2. Choose the right spot

Succulents need bright light—think south- or west-facing windows. I place mine on a sunny windowsill in my living room, where they get at least six hours of indirect sunlight. If your home lacks natural light, a grow light works wonders. 

I bought a cheap LED grow light online, and my succulents love it during gloomy winter days.

3. Adjust watering

Outdoor succulents often need more water than indoor ones because of wind and sun exposure. Once inside, I cut back to watering every two to three weeks. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill a succulent, so I always check the soil first—if it’s dry an inch down, it’s time to water.

4. Watch for shock

Moving plants indoors can cause stress. I’ve seen my succulents drop a leaf or two while adjusting. To minimize shock, I avoid moving them during extreme weather changes and keep them away from drafty windows or heating vents.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

I’ve made plenty of mistakes with my succulents, and I don’t want you to repeat them. Here are some pitfalls to avoid:

• Waiting too long: Don’t wait for the first frost to move your plants. By then, damage might already be done.
• Overwatering indoors: Indoor succulents need less water. I learned this the hard way when I drowned my poor aloe.
• Not enough light: Placing succulents in a dim corner will make them stretch and lose their shape. If you notice stretching, move them to a brighter spot or get a grow light.
• Ignoring humidity: American homes can get dry in winter, especially with heating systems running. I use a small humidifier near my succulents to keep them happy.

Final Thoughts

Bringing your succulents indoors at the right time is key to keeping them healthy and vibrant. For most American homes, early fall—around September or October—is the best time to make the move. 

Please pay attention to your local climate, watch for signs of stress, and give your plants the light and care they need indoors. I’ve learned to love this seasonal ritual—it’s like tucking my succulents in for a cozy winter nap.

Got questions about your succulents or need tips for your specific region? Drop a comment below, and I’ll share what’s worked for me. Let’s keep those succulents thriving!