Centipede Grass vs Bermuda Grass: A Complete Comparison for Southern Lawn Owners

Walk through any neighborhood in Georgia, South Carolina, or coastal North Carolina, and you will likely see two types of lawns side by side — one maintained with evident effort, edged precisely, mowed low and dense; another quieter in character, softer in tone, asking relatively little of its owner. 

In many cases, the first is a Bermuda grass lawn. The second is centipede grass. Both are warm-season grasses. Both are common across the American South. But they represent almost opposite philosophies of lawn care.

Choosing between centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides) and Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) is one of the most consequential decisions a southern homeowner can make. The right choice will give you years of satisfaction. The wrong one will cost you time, money, and no small amount of frustration.

This article covers everything you need to know — their origins, appearance, growth habits, maintenance demands, climate needs, pest vulnerabilities, costs, and more. Whether you are seeding a new lawn, replacing a failing one, or simply trying to understand what is already growing in your yard, this guide will give you the honest, detailed comparison you are looking for.

Understanding Warm-Season Grasses in the South

Warm-season grasses thrive when soil temperatures are between 80°F and 95°F (27°C–35°C). They grow actively through spring and summer, slow down in autumn, and go dormant — turning brown — during winter. They are naturally suited to the heat, humidity, and long growing seasons of the southeastern United States, the Gulf Coast, and similar climates around the world.

Centipede grass and Bermuda grass both belong to this category, but their temperaments within it are remarkably different. Bermuda grass is aggressive, fast-growing, and high-performing. Centipede grass is slow, low-growing, and deliberately easy to manage. Understanding this fundamental contrast is the starting point for everything that follows.

Centipede Grass: An Overview

Centipede grass often surprises people. It does not have the bold, lush appearance of St. Augustine grass or the athletic density of Bermuda grass. It grows slowly, asks for little, and responds poorly to excessive care. And yet — in the right conditions — it produces a genuinely attractive, durable lawn with far less work than most alternatives.

Origins

Centipede grass is native to China and Southeast Asia. It was introduced to the United States in 1916 through seeds brought from China by Frank Meyer, a USDA plant explorer. It naturalized quickly across the southeastern coastal plains and has since become one of the most widely used lawn grasses in the region, particularly in the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, and the Florida Panhandle.

Its common name comes from its distinctive appearance. The stolons — above-ground creeping stems — produce short, upright shoots at regular intervals along their length, giving the grass a look somewhat reminiscent of a centipede. It is not the most elegant origin story, but it is an accurate description.

Appearance

Centipede grass has a medium texture — coarser than Bermuda grass but finer than St. Augustine grass. Its color is a light to medium apple-green, which is noticeably lighter and less saturated than the deep blue-green of Bermuda grass or the rich green of St. Augustine. This lighter color is natural and normal. Homeowners who do not know this sometimes make the mistake of over-fertilizing centipede grass in an attempt to darken it — often with damaging results.

The grass forms a moderately dense, low-growing mat that rarely exceeds 3 to 4 inches in height even without mowing. It has a somewhat open appearance compared to Bermuda grass, which is denser and more uniform.

How It Spreads

Centipede grass spreads exclusively through stolons — horizontal stems that creep along the soil surface and produce roots at nodes. It does not produce rhizomes. This makes it slower-spreading than Bermuda grass, which uses both stolons and underground rhizomes. Centipede grass fills in gradually over time. It is patient grass, in a sense.

Its lack of rhizomes also means it recovers more slowly from damage than Bermuda grass. Once bare patches develop — from disease, insect damage, or physical wear — centipede grass takes longer to fill back in.

Climate and Adaptation

Centipede grass is best suited to USDA Hardiness Zones 7 through 9. It is particularly well adapted to the humid, sandy soils of the southeastern coastal plain. It performs best where winters are mild, summers are warm and humid, and the soil is slightly acidic — ideally with a pH between 5.0 and 6.0.

It is not suited to the western parts of the South, where soils are often alkaline and conditions are drier. In Texas, for instance, centipede grass struggles considerably and Bermuda grass dominates. In the humid Southeast, the dynamic is often reversed in residential settings.

Centipede grass is not particularly drought-tolerant. It will go dormant during dry spells and can suffer permanent damage in prolonged drought, particularly if the soil is sandy and moisture retention is poor.

Establishment

Centipede grass can be established from seed, sod, or plugs. Seed is widely available and relatively affordable — making it one of the more budget-friendly warm-season lawn options. Germination is slow, often taking 14 to 21 days, and full lawn establishment from seed may take an entire growing season or two. Patience is genuinely required.

Sod establishment is faster but more expensive. Plugs represent a middle ground — more affordable than full sod but quicker than seed in some respects.

One important note: centipede grass does not tolerate much traffic during establishment. It should be kept off new plantings until the lawn is well established.

Bermuda Grass: An Overview

Bermuda grass needs little introduction to most southern homeowners. It is the dominant warm-season grass on athletic fields, golf courses, and countless residential lawns across the South, the Southwest, and warm climates worldwide. Its defining characteristics are vigor, durability, and an almost relentless desire to grow.

Origins

Despite its name, Bermuda grass did not originate in Bermuda. It is native to Africa and parts of southern Asia. It was likely introduced to North America in the 1700s — possibly through Bermuda — and naturalized with remarkable speed across warm regions of the continent. Today, it grows on every continent except Antarctica and is considered invasive in several ecosystems.

Appearance

Common Bermuda grass has a fine to medium texture with narrow, grayish-green blades. Hybrid cultivars developed specifically for turf use — such as Tifway 419, TifTuf, and Celebration — have finer textures, greater density, and a deeper, more saturated green color that many homeowners find very attractive.

At its best — mowed low, fertilized well, and given full sun — Bermuda grass forms a dense, uniform, almost carpet-like lawn. It is the kind of lawn that makes a good first impression and holds it. The trade-off, as we will explore, is that maintaining it at that standard requires consistent, dedicated effort.

How It Spreads

Bermuda grass spreads through both stolons above ground and rhizomes below ground. This dual mechanism makes it exceptionally aggressive. It fills in bare patches quickly, recovers from wear at a pace other grasses cannot match, and spreads into surrounding areas — garden beds, sidewalk cracks, neighboring lawns — with notable persistence.

This same aggressiveness is a double-edged quality. Recovery from damage is fast. But containment requires constant vigilance.

Climate and Adaptation

Bermuda grass performs best in USDA Zones 7 through 10. It demands heat and thrives under prolonged, intense summer conditions. It is more drought-tolerant than centipede grass, thanks to a deep root system that can extend 2 to 3 feet or more into the soil. In Zone 7, it goes dormant during winter but recovers reliably in spring.

Unlike centipede grass, Bermuda grass is adaptable to a wide range of soil types and pH levels. It grows reasonably well in both acidic southeastern soils and the more alkaline soils found in Texas and the Southwest.

Establishment

Bermuda grass can be established from seed (common varieties), sod, sprigs, or plugs. Common Bermuda grass seed is inexpensive and widely available, making it one of the most affordable warm-season options. Hybrid varieties, which offer superior turf quality, cannot be seeded and must be established vegetatively.

Germination from seed is relatively fast — typically 7 to 14 days under warm conditions — and a lawn can achieve solid coverage within a single growing season.

Centipede Grass vs Bermuda Grass: A Head-to-Head Comparison

1. Maintenance Requirements

This is where the two grasses differ most dramatically — and for many homeowners, it is the deciding factor.

Centipede grass has earned its reputation as the “lazy man’s grass” — a phrase that should be taken as a compliment rather than a criticism. It is deliberately slow-growing and low-maintenance. It requires mowing only every 10 to 14 days during the growing season, at a height of 1.5 to 2 inches. 

This grass needs relatively little fertilizer — in fact, over-fertilizing is one of the most common and damaging mistakes centipede grass owners make. It does not produce heavy thatch and rarely requires aeration in the way that Bermuda grass does.

Bermuda grass, by contrast, is one of the most maintenance-demanding warm-season grasses available. It grows rapidly and requires mowing one to two times per week during the peak growing season. Hybrid varieties should be kept at mowing heights between 0.5 and 1.5 inches — a precision that demands sharp blades and consistency. 

Missing mowing cycles leads to thatch buildup and an uneven, scalped appearance when mowing finally resumes. It also requires heavy annual fertilization and periodic dethatching or core aeration.

For homeowners who enjoy lawn care as a hobby, Bermuda grass is rewarding. For those who want a presentable lawn without significant time investment, centipede grass is the more sensible choice.

Winner: Centipede Grass

2. Fertilization Needs

Centipede grass requires very little nitrogen. Typical recommendations range from 0.5 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, applied in a single spring application or split between spring and early summer. 

Applying too much nitrogen — even with the best intentions — triggers excessive growth, thatch, and a condition called centipede grass decline, a slow deterioration that is difficult to reverse. Iron supplements are often a better tool for improving color than nitrogen fertilization.

Bermuda grass, on the other hand, is a hungry grass. It typically requires 4 to 6 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year to maintain its dense, dark green appearance. This fertilizer must be split across multiple applications throughout the growing season. The cost and labor associated with this fertilization program are considerably higher than what centipede grass demands.

Winner: Centipede Grass

3. Drought Tolerance

Bermuda grass is the clear winner in drought tolerance. Its deep root system allows it to draw moisture from soil levels well below where centipede grass roots can reach. It can go dormant during drought and recover reliably once rainfall returns — a resilience that makes it well suited to regions with periodic dry spells.

Centipede grass has only moderate drought tolerance. Its shallow root system means it responds quickly to dry conditions, going dormant under moisture stress. Prolonged drought — particularly in sandy soils — can cause significant damage or even death in centipede grass. In areas with irregular summer rainfall or hot, dry periods, centipede grass will likely require supplemental irrigation to survive.

Winner: Bermuda Grass

4. Shade Tolerance

Neither grass handles shade particularly well, but centipede grass has a modest advantage. It can tolerate light to moderate shade — areas that receive 4 to 5 hours of sunlight per day — with reasonable success. It is not a shade grass by any measure, but it performs better in dappled light than Bermuda grass.

Bermuda grass has very low shade tolerance. It requires a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight to grow and maintain density. Under tree canopies or in areas shaded by structures, Bermuda grass thins dramatically and eventually disappears. Trying to force Bermuda grass to grow in shade is a common and frustrating failure for homeowners who do not know this limitation in advance.

Winner: Centipede Grass (slight advantage)

5. Heat Tolerance

Both grasses handle heat well, as expected of warm-season species native to hot climates. Bermuda grass, however, has a slight edge under sustained, extreme heat — particularly in arid or semi-arid conditions. It continues growing and recovering even when temperatures exceed 100°F (38°C), provided moisture is available.

Centipede grass handles the warm, humid heat of the southeastern United States well but can show stress under extended heat combined with drought. In the humid Southeast — its natural home — this rarely becomes a serious problem under normal rainfall patterns.

Winner: Bermuda Grass (slight advantage)

6. Cold Tolerance

Both grasses go dormant in winter, but Bermuda grass handles cold somewhat better. Its rhizomes are underground and insulated from surface freezes, allowing it to survive and recover from brief periods of subfreezing temperatures. Bermuda grass is reliably hardy in Zone 7 and can survive occasional temperature dips below that threshold.

Centipede grass is moderately cold-tolerant within its adaptation zone of Zones 7 through 9, but it can suffer significant damage from hard freezes, particularly in the upper reaches of Zone 7. Its stolons, running along the soil surface, are more exposed to frost damage than underground rhizomes. Extended cold periods — even without a sharp freeze — can weaken and thin centipede grass considerably.

Winner: Bermuda Grass

7. Soil Requirements

This is an area where centipede grass has a clear, practical advantage in much of the Southeast. Centipede grass is uniquely well suited to the acidic, sandy, low-fertility soils that characterize the southeastern coastal plain — soils that are genuinely challenging for many other grasses. It has adapted to low-nutrient conditions over centuries and actually performs better in poor soils than in rich, heavily amended ones.

Bermuda grass is adaptable to a wide range of soil types and performs well in both acidic and alkaline conditions. It is less particular than centipede grass about soil pH and nutrient levels. However, it also responds well to fertile, well-drained soils and benefits from soil amendment in ways that centipede grass does not necessarily require or tolerate.

If you have poor, acidic, sandy soil in the Southeast and want a grass that will grow in it without extensive amendment, centipede grass is the more natural fit.

Winner: Centipede Grass (in southeastern acidic soils)

8. Traffic and Wear Tolerance

Bermuda grass is among the most traffic-tolerant warm-season grasses available. It is the grass of choice for sports fields, golf fairways, and high-use recreational areas because it recovers from wear faster than almost any competitor. Children can play on it, dogs can run on it, and parties can be hosted on it with reasonable confidence that it will recover.

Centipede grass is considerably less tolerant of traffic. It can handle normal residential use — light foot traffic, occasional gatherings — but it does not recover well from heavy or repeated wear. Its slow growth rate means that once a section is damaged, it takes considerable time to fill back in. Families with very active children or large dogs may find centipede grass frustrating in high-traffic areas of the yard.

Winner: Bermuda Grass

9. Invasiveness and Weed Competition

Bermuda grass is famously invasive and competitive. Once established, it competes aggressively with weeds — which is a benefit in terms of weed suppression — but also invades garden beds, cracks in pavement, and neighboring properties with equal determination. Its underground rhizomes make it genuinely difficult to remove once it is established somewhere it is not wanted. Persistent edging is essential.

Centipede grass is far less invasive. Its slower growth and stolon-only spreading make it easier to contain, and it does not aggressively invade garden beds the way Bermuda grass does. However, centipede grass is also a weaker competitor against weeds than Bermuda grass, particularly during establishment. Weed control in new centipede grass plantings requires more active management.

Once a centipede grass lawn is established and dense, it provides moderate weed suppression — enough for most residential purposes. But it will not crowd out weeds as effectively as a dense Bermuda grass lawn.

Winner: Bermuda Grass for weed competition; Centipede Grass for containment and manageability

10. Pest and Disease Vulnerabilities

Centipede Grass: The most significant and widely feared pest for centipede grass is ground pearls (Margarodes meridionalis) — small, scale-like insects that feed on grass roots and are notoriously difficult to control. There are currently no effective chemical controls for ground pearls, making them one of the most frustrating pest problems in southern lawn care. Other concerns include nematodes, spittlebugs, and mole crickets in certain regions.

Centipede grass is also susceptible to centipede grass decline — a gradual deterioration associated with improper management, primarily over-fertilization, excessive thatch, and soil pH imbalance. Correcting centipede grass decline requires patience and careful soil management.

Bermuda Grass: Common pests include sod webworms, armyworms, mole crickets, and nematodes. Bermuda grass is also susceptible to spring dead spot (Ophiosphaerella spp.), a fungal disease that creates dead circular patches as the grass exits winter dormancy. Spring dead spot is most troublesome in the upper regions of Bermuda grass’s adaptation zone and can be persistent and difficult to fully eliminate.

Both grasses have meaningful pest and disease vulnerabilities. Ground pearls in centipede grass and spring dead spot in Bermuda grass represent different levels of management challenge, but neither is without risk.

Winner: Roughly equal; pest pressure varies by location and management

11. Cost of Establishment and Long-Term Management

Centipede grass seed is relatively affordable, and because it requires minimal fertilization, irrigation, and mowing compared to Bermuda grass, its long-term management cost is lower. This makes it genuinely attractive from a budget perspective for homeowners in the Southeast who have appropriate soil conditions.

Common Bermuda grass seed is also inexpensive, but the ongoing costs of maintaining Bermuda grass — fertilizer, more frequent mowing, dethatching, pest management — add up considerably over time. Hybrid Bermuda grass, which requires sod or sprigs, has a higher establishment cost as well.

Winner: Centipede Grass (long-term cost efficiency)

12. Aesthetic Quality

Aesthetic preference is personal, but it is worth addressing directly. Bermuda grass — particularly hybrid varieties maintained at low mowing heights with proper fertilization — produces a dense, refined, visually impressive lawn. The appearance of a well-maintained Bermuda grass lawn is hard to dispute.

Centipede grass produces a more modest, natural appearance. Its lighter green color and more open texture do not have the same visual impact as a perfect Bermuda grass lawn. However, it looks clean, tidy, and genuinely attractive when maintained correctly. For many homeowners — especially those who are not trying to win lawn competitions — a well-kept centipede grass lawn is entirely satisfying.

Winner: Bermuda Grass (for high-impact visual quality); Centipede Grass (for low-effort aesthetic satisfaction)

Can Centipede Grass and Bermuda Grass Coexist?

This is a question that comes up frequently among homeowners who discover both grasses growing in the same lawn — often because one was intentionally planted and the other arrived uninvited.

The honest answer is that centipede grass and Bermuda grass do not coexist peacefully. Bermuda grass, with its aggressive spreading habit and competitive nature, will typically invade and overtake centipede grass over time, particularly in sunny areas. 

The higher mowing height preferred by centipede grass (1.5 to 2 inches) actually suppresses Bermuda grass to some degree, but Bermuda grass’s rhizomatous spread allows it to persist and eventually dominate.

Deliberate mixing of the two grasses is not advisable. The result is typically an inconsistent, patchy lawn that is difficult to manage because the two grasses have different fertilization, mowing, and irrigation requirements.

If Bermuda grass is encroaching on an established centipede grass lawn, selective herbicides containing sethoxydim can suppress Bermuda grass without damaging centipede grass — though repeated treatments are often necessary.

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6 Proven Ways to Make Bermuda Grass Thicker and Greener

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Which Grass Should You Choose?

Choose Centipede Grass if:

• You live in USDA Zones 7 through 9, particularly in the humid southeastern coastal plain.
• Your soil is acidic, sandy, and low in fertility — and you prefer not to amend it extensively.
• You want a low-maintenance lawn that requires minimal mowing, fertilization, and irrigation under normal rainfall.
• Your yard receives at least 4 to 5 hours of sunlight per day.
• Budget efficiency over the long term is a priority.
• You have relatively low foot traffic needs.

Choose Bermuda Grass if:

• You live in USDA Zones 7 through 10, including drier regions of the South and Southwest.
• Your lawn receives 6 or more hours of direct sunlight daily.
• Drought tolerance is a significant concern.
• Your lawn receives heavy foot traffic from children, pets, or outdoor activities.
• You want a dense, visually impressive lawn and are prepared to invest the maintenance effort required.
• You need fast establishment and recovery from wear.

Recommended Cultivars

Centipede Grass Cultivars

• TifBlair — Improved cold hardiness compared to common centipede grass; good for the upper South.
• Centennial — A dwarf variety with shorter internodes and a denser growth habit; popular for residential lawns.
• Common Centipede — Established from seed; reliable and widely available across the Southeast.

Bermuda Grass Cultivars

• Tifway 419 — Industry standard for sports turf and high-quality residential lawns; fine texture and dense growth.
• TifTuf — Superior drought tolerance; excellent wear recovery; gaining popularity in residential applications.
• Celebration — Deeper color and improved shade tolerance relative to most Bermuda cultivars.
• Common Bermuda — Affordable seed option for utility lawns where appearance is secondary to coverage.

Summary Comparison Table

Feature	Centipede Grass	Bermuda Grass
Texture	Medium	Fine to medium
Color	Light to medium green	Gray-green to deep green
Growth habit	Stolons only	Stolons and rhizomes
Maintenance level	Low	High
Fertilization needs	Very low	Very high
Drought tolerance	Low to moderate	High
Heat tolerance	Moderate	Very high
Cold tolerance	Moderate (Zone 7–9)	Moderate to good (Zone 7–10)
Shade tolerance	Low to moderate	Very low
Traffic tolerance	Low to moderate	Very high
Soil preference	Acidic, sandy, low-fertility	Adaptable; wide pH range
Establishment	Seed, sod, plugs	Seed, sod, sprigs, plugs
Long-term cost	Low	Moderate to high
Key pest concern	Ground pearls, nematodes	Spring dead spot, sod webworms
Invasiveness	Low	Very high
Best climate zones	7–9 (humid Southeast)	7–10 (broad range)

Final Thoughts

There is something quietly appealing about centipede grass. It does not demand attention, does not push past its boundaries, and does not require the kind of investment that high-performing grasses like Bermuda grass do. For the right homeowner in the right location, centipede grass is genuinely one of the best lawn choices available — not because it dazzles, but because it delivers dependable results without asking too much in return.

Bermuda grass, on the other hand, offers a higher ceiling. The potential of a properly maintained Bermuda grass lawn is impressive by any standard. The trade-off is clear: that potential requires sustained commitment. It is not a grass that rewards neglect.

Neither grass is universally superior. The best choice is the one that matches your climate, your soil, your lifestyle, and your expectations honestly. Take stock of your yard — how much sun it gets, what the soil is like, how much time you can realistically give to lawn care, and how important curb appeal is to you. Those answers, more than any general recommendation, will point you toward the right grass.

When in doubt, contact your local cooperative extension office. Their knowledge of regional soil conditions, pest pressures, and climate specifics is invaluable — and it is available to you at no cost.

References

1. Trenholm, L. E., & Unruh, J. B. (University of Florida IFAS Extension) — Centipedegrass for Florida Lawns. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH008
2. Chandra, A., & Genovesi, A. D. (Texas A&M AgriLife Research) — Bermudagrass: The Sports Turf of the South — Breeding and Improvement. https://agriliferesearch.tamu.edu/projects/turfgrass/
3. Hanna, W. W., & Elsner, J. E. (University of Georgia Cooperative Extension) — Centipedegrass Yearly Maintenance Program. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C816
4. Patton, A., & Boyd, J. (University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service) — Choosing a Grass for Arkansas Lawns. https://www.uaex.uada.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-6138.pdf
5. Duble, R. L. (Texas A&M University — Department of Soil and Crop Sciences) — Centipedegrass. https://turf.tamu.edu/turfgrasses/centipedegrass/